The impressive Troodos mountain range stretches across the centre of Cyprus and reaches up to 1.952 metres at Mount Olympus. A rocky but easily accessible region full of nature trails, pine forests, Byzantine monasteries and churches on mountain peaks, winemaking villages and famous mountain resorts.
TROODOS FORESTS AND CEDAR VALLEY:
The thick cedar and pine forests and sun-soaked slopes of the Troodos region offer an unexpected contrast to the Mediterranean coast. The aromatic trees, shrubs and flowers of Troodos blend with the mountains, rivers and sky to create a wonderful aroma-filled environment that continually stimulates the senses.
High up on Troodos, in what approaches a semi-alpine zone on Khionistra, with its unique weather and soil conditions, special vegetation communities have evolved. In this area we find Juniperus foetidissima, a Cypress-like Juniper that is restricted to the topmost slopes of Khionistra. The Black Pine starts at an altitude of about 1.300 metres and finishes at just below this peak. At these higher altitudes it replaces the Brutia Pine, which covers most of the lower mountains - including the Paphos Forest - and stretches down to the plains.
A great many of Cyprus' endemic plants are found on Troodos, especially in the higher altitudes. Out of the 130 or so Cyprus' endemic plants more than a third is found only on Troodos and mainly above 1,000 metres. The distribution of many other non-endemic plants in Cyprus is also restricted to the higher reaches of Troodos. The yellow flowered Alyssum troodi, an endemic species and A. cypricum, a near endemic, are confined, like many other endemic plants, to the serpentinite areas of Troodos. On Troodos many plants flower late in spring, well after the snows have melted spectacular, rosy-purple flowered Peonies can be found near Prodromos and in the forest in Madhari and Papoutsa.
Under pine trees both in the Black pine zone and lower down grows the saprophytic orchid Limodorum abortivum, leafless, light purple and often taller than half a metre. Many other species of orchids grow high up on Troodos - Helleborine orchids, locally known as "The Holy Virgin's Tears," such as Epipactis troodi. As its name infers, it grows mainly in Cyprus, where it grows only on Troodos. Alder and the Oriental Plane Tree are common on river banks in many valleys. The endemic Cyprus Golden Oak, Quercus alnifolia, covers extensive screen areas, on steep slopes and is characteristic of the Troodos landscape. Strawberry trees, Arbutus andrachne, with their bright red fruit, shiny stem and branches, flourish mainly in the more humid areas, as do wild roses and Myrtle. Various rock-roses and an endemic Thyme (Thymus integer) abound in the area.
Lower down on stream banks, in places such as the valley of Karkotis river, other communities and plants can be found. One of the great orchids rarities, Epipactis veratrifolia, which can reach one metre in height, honeysuckle, wild violets and the insectivorous Pinguicula crystallina, with its fleshy, sticky leaves, can be found here.
The fauna of Troodos reflects the rich flora of these mountains and the wide spectrum of habitats it has. Here one can spot mountain butterflies and damselflies as well as many bird species not found elsewhere on the island. There are endemic lizards and snakes. Freshwater crabs and frogs can be found in several of the mountain streams.
The most spectacular animal of these mountains is no doubt the Cyprus Moufflon, a rare type of wild sheep with huge curving horns that can only be found in Cyprus. Believed to be only around 1000 in existence, the Mufflon has been officially listed as a protected species. The forestry station at Stavros tis Psokas maintains a national reserve for the moufflon, with numerous popular nature trails of the area.
Cedar Valley
Today, the island's Cedar forest is restricted to one valley only. However, the cedars in this secluded valley are no ordinary trees, but the indigenous Cyprus cedar, Cedrus brevifolia, a close relative of the famous cedars of Lebanon. They grow mainly on heights between 1000 and 1400 meter.
NATURE TRAILS:
The area of Troodos is suitable for many activities such as hiking, skiing, mountain cycling, nature study and picnics and has hiking trails covering a total length of 50 kilometres.
There are four formal, sign-posted Natural Trails, the Atalante Trail, Artemis Trail, Kaledonian Falls and Persefoni Trail.
Atalante Trail:
This trail is about 9km long. It starts at Troodos square and ends at the Chromie Mine camp. It was named after the mythological forest nymph Atalante. The changes in the scenery and variety of subjects will give you the opportunity to examine the forest, the flora, the rocks etc. From various view points you will be able to see many areas and villages of Limassol, Paphos and Nicosia. At about 3km from Troodos square you will come across a spring of very good drinking water.
Artemis Trail:
The trail was named after Artemis, the ancient Goddess of Forests. The circular, seven-kilometre long Artemis Trail is at the 1850-metre level and encompasses endemic flora such as Cyprus crocus and orchids under the black pines, as well as rich avian life that includes blue rock thrush and imperial eagles. You will also see many areas and villages in Limassol, Paphos and Nicosia.
Kaledonian Falls:
At four kilometres, the Kalidonia Trail (also known as the Trail of Nightingales) crisscrosses the Kryo Potamo stream as it flows from the Troodos to Platres. Kryos Potamos is one of the few streams in Cyprus which has water all year round. The nature trail runs along this scenic and cool canyon. The gurgling waters, the warbling birds, the variety of plant life, the splashing water at "Kaledonia" and the thick shade of trees enchant the visitor. The final portion of the trail begins under a wooden archway and leads to the Caledonean Falls.
Persephone Trail:
The three-kilometer Persephone Trail affords up-close looks at beautiful lichens and ferns. It was named after the Goddess of spring, Persephone. It starts about 150m south of Troodos square and ends at an impressive view point at 1660 m altitude. The trail offers exceptional scenery, and at times it passes through beautiful stands of trees and rich plant life. Looking towards the open horizon from the various view points, you should see several villages of the Limassol district.
MONASTERIES AND CHURCHES
The Troodos region is known for its concentration of specially preserved Byzantine monasteries and churches, nine of which are included in the official UNESCO list of cultural treasures of the World's heritage:
Panayia tou Moutoulla, Agios Ioannis Lampadistis, Timiou Stavrou, Panayia tou Araka, Panayia tis Assinou, Ayios Nicolaos tis Stegis, Stavros tou Agiasmati, Panayia Podithou and Archangelos Michail.
Panagia tou Moutoulla Church - Moutoullas village
This tiny 13th century chapel of Panagia tou Moutoulla is one of the earliest dated examples of the steep-pitched wooden-roof type with frescoes dating to 1280. The traditional craft of carved wooden basins has been preserved in Moutoullas.
Agios Ioannis Lampadistis Church and Byzantine Museum – Kalopanagiotis village
The church of Agios Ioannis Lampadistis contains excellent frescoes of the 13th and 15th century. Originally a monastery, it is a complex of two churches and a chapel of various dates. One of the biggest religious fairs in the valley is held here on 4 October, St. John's day.
Timiou Stavrou Church – Pelendri village
Once the property of Jean de Lusignan, son of the Lusignan King of Cyprus, Hugh IV. There are two interesting churches; the 14th century church contains beautiful wall paintings of Paleological period and the church of Panagia Katholiki in the centre of the village which dates to the early 16th century with paintings in the Italo-Byzantine style.
Panagia tou Araka Church – Lagoudera village
The 12th century church situated just outside the village has frescoes which are some of the finest of the late Comnenian style (c1192) prevailing throughout Greece, the Balkans and Russia. Together with Asinou church and that of Ayios Nikolaos tis Stegis, it is considered to be one of the most important Byzantine churches on the island.
Panagia tis Assinou Church – Nikitari village
An early 12th century church dedicated to the Virgin Mary with frescoes of the 12th century and the later periods, considered to be among the finest examples of Byzantine mural painting in the island.
Agios Nicolaos tis Stegis – Kakopetria village
The church of Ayios Nikolaos tis Stegis (St. Nicholas of the Roof) stands about 5km above the village and once belonged to a monastery. It is completely painted with murals dating from the 11th to the 17th century and is considered one of the most interesting Byzantine churches on the island. The church took its name from the steep pitched wooden roof which was built to protect it from climatological conditions.
Stavros tou Agiasmati Church – Platanistassa village
A 15th century church, lying about 3km outside this charming old village, retains the most complete cycles of mural paintings of the second half of the 15th century in Cyprus.
Panagia Podithou Church – Galata village
The church of Panagia Pothidou which once belonged to a monastery, it was erected in 1502 and its paintings are of the Italo-Byzantine style.
Archangelos Michail Church – Pedoulas village
The painted church of Archangelos Michail in the lower part of the village dates from 1474. A few metres from the church are the Pedoulas Byzantine Museum.
THREE OLD MONASTERIES
Kykko Monastery
The most famous and richest monastery in Cyprus, founded in 1100 and dedicated to the Virgin Mary, it possesses one of the three surviving icons ascribed to St. Luke. The icon, covered in silver gilt and enclosed in a shrine of tortoiseshell and mother-of-pearl, stands at the front of the iconostasis. The first President of Cyprus, Archbishop Makarios III served as a novice here. At his own wish, he was buried at Throni, 3 km west of the Monastery, not far from his native village of Panayia. Religious fairs are held at Kykko on 15 August and 8 September.
Troodhitissa Monastery
A beautiful monastery standing amid pine trees, it was originally founded in the 13th century, but the present church dates from 1731. The church contains a priceless icon of the Virgin Mary brought from Asia Minor, plated with silver-gilt and many other valuable icons. A large religious fair is held in the grounds on 15 August.
Mesa Potamos Monastery
A deserted monastery near Platres in an idyllic setting, which includes a nearby waterfall.
FAMOUS MOUNTAIN RESORTS
Winemaking villages:
The area, known as the "Krassochoria" (the Wine Villages) is found on the south side of the Troodos range. Old traditions are kept alive in these villages, where the cultivation of the vineyards, and wine-making are still the main occupation of most of the inhabitants. This is the area which produces the famous local dry red wine. Main villages in the area are Omodhos, Arsos, Pachna, Kilani and Vasa.
Omodhos
A wine producing village, once the property Sir John de Brie, Prince of Galilee, with the Monastery of Stavros (Holy Cross) standing in the centre of the village. The monastery contains old icons, excellent wood carving and other ecclesiastical objects of interest, as well as a small National struggle museum. An old House, with a wine-press known as Linos, is being restored and can also be visited. The village is surrounded by white stone-built dwellings, shops selling the famous and beautiful hand-made lace and jewellery, tavernas and cafes and is an ideal place to gather and meet with the local people, in a hospitable and old fashioned atmosphere. The friendly inhabitants, vine growers since the olden days, are warm and welcoming, and consider a visit to their village as a compliment. The streets are spotless and very picturesque and everything has retained its original architectural character.
Arsos
The village of Arsos is one of the biggest wine producing villages in Cyprus. It’s built on the slopes of Laona Mountain, 1092 metres above sea level, with an open horizon on the Valley of the Diarizos River, as far as the sea of Paphos. Thanks to this geographical position, it enjoys a wonderful cool and dry climate in summer and attracts therefore hundreds of holidaymakers. Since the most ancient times, it has developed into a big rich wine-producing village. All the inhabitants of the village make their own wine, especially red wine, and keep it in big earthenware jars. They grow mainly dark grapes, xynisteri, as well as new varieties suitable for the production of wine. The jars and the winepress for the production of the famous Arsos wine, as well as the alembics for the production of zivania can be found in most houses.
Kilani
The picturesque village of Kilani is built close to the west bank of the river Kryos (Cold River), a tributary of the Kouris River, at an altitude of 820 meters. An attractive wine-producing village with the single-aisled vaulted church of Ayia Mavri, typical of 12th century architecture with murals of the late 15th century. Kilani has preserved -to a great degree -the rich, traditional folk architecture of the wine-producing villages. Narrow, paved, ascending alleys, tiled roofs, picturesque upper floors, yard walls with earthenware jars, balconies, and arches with embossed frames at the entrances of houses that are built with regional, carved limestone, providing to the visitor a taste of the tradition and inheritance of this unique -in beauty -village.
Vasa
The village of Vasa Kellakiou lays 19 kms northeast of Limassol, at 400m above sea level. It is adjacent to the villages of Asghata and Kalavasos to the northeast, and Kellaki and Sanida to the northwest. The village grows carob, olive, almond and citrus trees as well as other fruit trees and vegetables. Entering the village, one can admire the traditional architecture of the houses, which fortunately are being gradually restored, to provide all the comforts of modern accommodation, without compromising their original structure. The village centre is dominated by the St. Demetrios church, which houses the Stone of St. Demetrios, and Panayia Voskena (Virgin of the Shepherds), a church dedicated to the Virgin to protect the shepherd's flocks from various diseases.
Kakopetria village
The village is one of the most beautiful in the Troodos range, cascading down both sides of the Troodos valley. In the center of the village is a large square surrounded with taverns or local restaurants and shaded by tall trees. The old quarter of the village, with its traditional houses, has been declared a protected area. Yet the village is very accommodating to tourists, with numerous hotels, restaurants and even night clubs.
Although the most famous church associated with Kakopetria is Agios Nikolaos tis Stegis, there are also several other beautiful churches within the village. The small 16th century church of Panagia Theotokos, off the main road, has retained about half of its murals. The church of Agios Georgios Perachoritis has some very original wall paintings belonging to the first quarter of the 16th century. |
